Paul Smith SS/25 – A Bohemian ’60s-Inspired Menswear Collection

In the above video, you’ll see the key looks from the Paul Smith SS/25 menswear collection, which was unveiled at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy. This collection marks Sir Paul Smith’s return to the Italian fashion week, paying tribute to the Italian cafes he frequented in Soho during the 1960s.

The Inspiration of Paul Smith SS/25 menswear collection

Typically open all night, the Italian cafes were a haven for people after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening. Naturally, they attracted a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers, making Soho the epicentre of the creative world at that time.

Soho stalwarts Francis Bacon and Lucien Freud provide key inspiration. Moreover, this painterly influence is reflected in the presentation space with art materials supplied by Winsor & Newton. Seating throughout the venue is from Artek, featuring their iconic Stool 60.

The Collection

Paul Smith SS/25 menswear collection itself builds on this ’60s theme, with a delightfully relaxed and tactile approach to tailoring. Ties are loosely knotted, paired with denim chore jackets and unstructured blazers in cotton canvas. The looks suggest an artist heading to dinner straight from a day’s painting in the studio. Suits are crafted from classic houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics, evoking London in the ’60s. And the outerwear features bold statement fabrics for a striking effect. A standout piece – an oversized trench coat. The statement coat is made from custom Italian cloth with an exploded pastel check design, inspired by the Paul Smith Signature Stripe.

The Future

Returning to Pitti Uomo, Sir Paul Smith took the opportunity to announce an exciting new project launching in early 2025: a collaboration with US denim icon, Lee®. In the early 1970s, Paul began importing painter pants by Lee to sell in his first shop in Nottingham. That connection now comes full circle with a capsule collection featuring printed denim, jacquard trousers, woven tops, and t-shirts. I can’t wait to see it.

Watch the video and be inspired!