#Runway – What trends emerged at Milan Fashion Week AW 23

February 28, 2023

Milan fashion week is one of the most important events on the fashion calendar. Brands like Prada, Fendi, Giorgio Armani, and Missoni are the engines of the industry that created the “Made in Italy” stamp. Craftsmanship, opulence, elegance, and luxury are some of the qualities that make Italian fashion so popular worldwide. And Milan Fashion Week AW23, apart from being relevant, is also a week of big numbers, with 59 shows and 2371 looks this year. Generally speaking, Italian fashion suggests practical, sensible, classic, yet luxurious autumn/winter clothes.
Now, let’s see the ups & downs of the trends compared to last year, and the trends that emerged as winners from Milan Fashion Week AW23.

Ups & Downs

According to the fashion platform Tag-Walk, for the upcoming autumn/winter 23-24 season, we’ll see more Y2K-inspired looks and a 144% increase in interest in knit tops. Leather and shoulder pads will be high on the online shop search list. And what’s losing interest? Animal print, logos, denim, and floral. It doesn’t mean we won’t wear these clothes anymore, but other pieces and prints will be more relevant in the wardrobe AW 23-24. So, with this information, you can already start planning your capsule wardrobe for the next season.

1- Y2K

collage with 2000s inspired looks of runways from Milan Fashion Week AW 23
Bluemarine- Cormio – Gucci – Andreadamo – Marco Rambaldi

The aesthetic of the 2000s still inspires several designers. Remember the Cropped tops, cargo pants, corset tops, and duster jackets of Posh Spice Victoria Beckham before she was a fashion designer? Or the cargo pants of Jennifer Lopez when she dated Ben Affleck for the first time. So, the 2000s are one of the biggest trends from Milan fashion week AW 23 with designers such as Gucci, Blumarine, and Diesel, among others, betting on this style.

2- Grey

collage with grey looks of runways from Milan Fashion Week AW 23
Gucci – Tods – Prada – Fendi – Max Mara

Are we going to have a grey autumn/winter? Nah, colours are still a strong trend on the runway from Milan Fashion Week, but grey has gained importance as a classic and basic colour. Especially in tailored craftsmanship clothes, as seen in shows by Fendi, Jim Sander, Prada, Tod’s, and Max Mara.

3- Yellow

collage with yellow looks of runways from Milan Fashion Week AW 23
Jil Sander – Genny – Gucci – Prada – Jil Sander

The sun will shine in AW23-24, baby. Ferragamo, Jim Sander, Gucci, and Diesel chose the egg yolk yellow. Prada and Bottega Veneta opted for pastel yellow, almost beige. Yellow is a colour that doesn’t suit everyone, though. So, check out our article on which colour suits your skin tone the best.

4- Maxi Coat

collage with maxi coats looks of runways from Milan Fashion Week AW 23
Roberto Cavalli – Max Mara – Ferragamo – Jil Sander – Gucci

Good news for those who bought an oversized teddy coat in 2022, because it will be on the streets again next AW23. Max Mara presented The Camelocracy show, of course, with luxurious maxi camel coats. Ferragamo and Roberto Cavalli also created powerful silhouettes with super long and voluminous coats.

5- Leather

Jil Sander – Sportmax – Sportmax – Gucci – Fendi

Tailored suits, skirts, and jacket sets will flirt with leather as a noble and sensual fabric. In AW23, leather will be less rock ‘n’ roll and more office-look, as seen on Bottega Veneta, Sportmax, Prada, Fendi, and Tod’s runways.

6- Red

collage with red looks of runways from Milan Fashion Week AW 23
Ferragamo – Genny – Prada – Fendi – Bluemarine

Just like for Spring/Summer 23, red will also be a statement colour in Autumn/Winter 23-24. Red looks will appear in suits, dresses, and skirt sets, creating an all-red-look style.

7- Fine Knit

Bluemarine – Fendi – Missoni – Tods – Fendi

Sheer knit with a polo or turtleneck is the Italian answer to the naked dress. Even though it’s see-through, fine knit doesn’t reveal everything, keeping the mystery that’s the number one component of sexy. Fendi went for a fine knit in pastel blue, while Prada created an androgynous grey look. Max Mara, Blumarine, and Tod’s made dresses with elongated silhouettes and turtlenecks.

8- Boss Shoulders

Prada – Sportmax – Sportmax – Tods – Fendi

Oversized blazers are still going strong, but with wide shoulders. Some designers like Tod’s and MM6 created box-cut blazers, while Sportmax and Prada designed blazers with boss shoulders and cinched waists. It’s a totally new shape.

9- Metallica

Missoni – Ferragamo – Gucci – Bluemarine – Sportmax

Metallics that have been with us for a few seasons will still be present in Autumn/Winter 23-24. In various colours besides silver and in different textures. Bluemarine and Ferragamo went for liquid metallic, while Missoni created metallic mesh applied to dresses, coats, and jumpsuits.

10- Layer Up

Andreadamo – Missoni – Fendi – N°21 – Max Mara

Bottega Veneta presented a look with a long glove over a shirt with a shirt dress on top. Another proposal with long gloves over a top and pants appeared at the MM6 show. Missoni paired a black chevron metallic detail dress with a turtleneck top underneath. We also saw layering in the collections of N21, GCDS, Adreadamo, and others. Layering is a great way to achieve a casual, pratical and every day look that many designers are betting as the macro trend of AW 23. So much so that you will find this proposal also in the Tory Burch runway at New York Fashion Week AW 23.

Images courtesy from @maxmara, @prada, @sportmax, @gucci, @missoni, @fendi, @n21, @andreadamo, @robertocavalli, @bluemarine, @ferragamo, @tods, @genny, @jilsander, @marcorambaldi, @Cormio.